Creation workshop is a slicer used for DLP printers. After loading your 3D file, Creation Workshop is capable of numerous features. These include, file transformations, hollowing, nesting, slice view, gcode editing and slice setting adjustment. There is also support generation which can be done automatically or manually.
PrintFlow3D as the print manager does not have the capacity to prepare 3D object files for printing, only to print pre-sliced files loaded onto it. The file format needed for PrintFlow3D is either a .zip file (containing images and gcode) or a Creation Workshop Scene file (.cws). A 1 year license for Creation Workshop has been supplied with each Liquid Crystal 10″. You can download this software containing the latest resin profiles you need.
Note: Creation Workshop is only compatible with Windows
In Creation Workshop go to Help > Plugins > Enter License
For objects with complex geometries that need additional or more complex supports, we would recommend using Meshmixer. This free software, available from the link, is packed full of features more dedicated toward analysis, repairing and supporting 3d models. It functions, in our workflow, as an additional tool giving extra functions such as STL repair and analysis, sculpting, hollowing, mesh reduction, layout and packing, and many more.
PrintFlow3D is an open source print manager that comes integrated with the Liquid Crystal HR and Wi-Fi enabler. It allows for a wireless connection from your PC or Mac, to the printer. It gives options to load and remove printable files, as well as wirelessly control the printer and later settings. Download this browser based PrintFlow3D connector for your operating system.
Download the USB driver for the Liquid Crystal 10″. This needs to be installed along with the software, when setting up the printer.
The downloads featured on this page are the Creation Workshop Resin Profiles which contain all the settings and information needed for the resin used in the Liquid Crystal 10”. Each resin has a specific set of variables, exposure time for example, meaning that you will need to download the relevant profiles for the resin you have.
Download all the Resin settings below for the Liquid Crystal 10``Download
To get the profiles in creation workshop, download and extract the profiles. Then copy the ones required to the ‘Profiles’ folder in the Creation Workshop folder. Make sure there are only the .slicing files in the profiles folder.
The exposure times contained in the profiles are to ensure the print completes. It may cause some overexposure on small detail. If this is the case, you can manually adjust the times to best suit your requirements
Q: What is the main difference between the Liquid Crystal 10″ and the Liquid Crystal HR?
A: The main difference is the screen. The improved high-resolution screen has pixels more than two times smaller giving higher definition prints. The linear drive unit has also been upgraded to an all-in-one system allowing for more accurate and repeatable prints. Wi-Fi connectivity coupled with a touchscreen allows the Liquid Crystal HR to be untethered from a PC. Finally, the vat has been designed to be easier to use and longer lasting.
Q: Why do I need a vat film?
A: The film is the base of the vat and protects your screen. It needs replacing from time to time when it gets damaged or becomes affected after repeatedly being exposed to the curing polymer.
Q: How long will the vat film last?
A: Depending on the size and shape of objects you are printing; the film may need changing every 10 or so prints. The Liquid Crystal HR has a tighter vat film than the Liquid Crystal 10″ vat, and will not lose its tension as quickly and therefore can last longer. Change it when it is damaged or looks cloudy. In order to extend the use of the film, follow the instructions on how to clean after each print.
Q: How do I send my files to the printer?
A: Files are loaded onto the Liquid Crystal 10″ directly by tethering to your PC or by the Wi-Fi enabler. You can load files onto the Liquid Crystal HR in two ways; from a pc or USB. You can upload and send a .cws file to print from PrintFlow3d from your pc. You can also upload pre sliced files from a USB. See instructions on our support page for more information.
Q: How do I update the software on the printer?
A: The printer will automatically update when connected to the internet and restarted. Alternatively, the printer can be updated by going to ‘Settings’ and ‘Update’ on the touchscreen.
Q: How do I know how much resin to use for my print?
A: It is possible to calculate it exactly from the object volume; 1 cm3 = 1.2g of resin, but you will need an excess to allow the resin to recover the part. In practise, it’s easier just to over-fill and re-use the resin. Fill it a quarter of the way up the vat for most prints; for large ones, fill it half full.
Q: I have resin on the screen. What is the best way to clean it?
A: Remove all the liquid with absorbent paper, then carefully scrape solid lumps off with a flat non-serrated edge. You can scrape very carefully, at an acute angle, with a razor blade to chip off cured polymer, but plastic is safer. Do not use solvents.
Q: Can you make a part for me if I send you a file?
A: Yes, if you email us the file, we will advise the cost to make it.
Q: Do you have plans for better software?
A: Yes, we have software development underway now.
Q: Can I use your printer with a Mac computer?
A: No. Creation Workshop, the slicing engine cannot be used with a Mac unless it runs Windows.
Q: What is the best method of support generation?
A: We are currently creating a comprehensive guide for how to support every different type of object. Until that is ready please feel free to email us the stl file and we will support if for you and return it.
Q: Can I use an alternative software?
A: Some people have used alternative software, such as Nano DLP to create a pre sliced .zip file which can be put on the printer using a USB. We do not provide instructions on this.
Q: Do you have any anti-aliasing?
A: Creation Workshop has anti-aliasing. We advise trying about 1.5 for the Liquid Crystal 10″ and 10 for the Liquid Crystal HR. Make sure your pc has the power to cope with slicing if you run anti-aliasing at above 5. If you run at 10 on a PC without enough power, the slices may disappear.
Q: What is the difference between Daylight and UV 3D resin?
A: Daylight resin can only be used in Liquid Crystal 3D printers; UV resin is designed for DLP or laser 3D printers that use the UV spectrum. The polymers are identical in performance; the main difference is just that Daylight resin uses photons at about 460nm to create free radicals to join the chains and UV uses 350 to 405nm photons. Daylight resin can never be completely clear.
Q: How do I store unused resin?
A: We recommend pouring the resin back from the vat into the bottle through a sieve to remove any solid parts.
Q: What shrinkage should I expect?
A: Our resins are optimised to shrink as little as possible. In Liquid Crystal printers, shrinkage is limited as liquid polymer surrounding the object can replenish any shrinkage that takes place almost entirely eliminating its effect. Hard resins will shrink by more than flexible, and our lowest is Low Shrink. In Laser or DLP printers the process is faster and there may not be time for the liquid to replenish the shrinkage, but our resins will be favourable in a comparison with competitor grades. We have produced Archimedes principal shrinkage data on all grades, please consult us if you want this information.
Q: Can I mix different resins in the VAT?
A: We do not advise mixing resins as they may have slightly different cure speeds, but in practice this is possible.
Q: Do you have castable resin?
A: Yes we offer an excellent castable resin in Daylight or UV resin that will create almost no ash and burn evenly.
Q: How can I dispose of the resin?
A: The resin is a skin irritant, wear gloves when in contact with it. Remove as much liquid from the platform and object as possible with paper. Waste paper can be left in sunlight for a few minutes to harden and then be disposed of. Place the platform in a washing-up bowl and clean the object. You can leave the washing bowl in sunlight for a few minutes to harden any resin and this can be disposed of as solid waste.
Q: The resin changes colour, is that normal?
A: It is normal in Daylight resin. It will have a certain colour when liquid, then change to the final colour once cured and post exposed. Make sure you shake the resin bottle before use.
Q: What is the product shelf life?
A: The product will last for 1 year when kept at room temperature and away from sunlight in original packaging.
Q: Will the UV resins work with my DLP or Laser printer?
A: UV uses 350 to 405nm photons. Choose our UV DLP or UV Laser according to which printer you have. You may need to adjust the cure time. Forums online may already have run tests on your printer and can provide detailed information. Contact us for information on UV resins at 355nm.
Q: Can I use daylight resin to bond 2 parts together?
A: Yes, if you bond them before either of your parts has been post exposed. Apply the resin to the join and then post expose the item (in a UV unit or in sunlight) for 10 minutes.
Q: Which type of glue is suitable for your resin when the product is printed?
A: Most commonly we use the same resin to bond parts- the bond is stronger if parts have not been post exposed, then post expose the entire part all together. We do use low viscosity low odour cyanoacrylate also or a 2-part epoxy.
Q: Are post exposed parts watertight?
A: Hard parts are watertight; soft and flexible ones are not. All polymers may absorb water after prolonged immersion.
Q: How stable are the parts over time?
A: Like all polymers cured with UV they will be eventually weakened by UV, but our polymers are tough and have a UV absorber to prevent light degradation. For maximum life, store the parts out of sunlight and in a dry, stable environment.
Q: How do I make the part less sticky?
A: Clean the part by spraying or immersing in IPA to achieve a dry surface quickly. Post expose under water immediately after you have washed it. Place container in bright sunlight for 60 minutes or in a UV unit for 30 minutes.
Q: My part has a bit missing where the supports were attached.
A: If the support is too wide and strong it will be difficult to break off. Reduce the width of the joining tip of the support or cut it off lower down and sand the stub off.
Q: Can I sand the final print?
A: Yes, once post exposed and dry, the print can be sanded.
Q: Can I paint the final print?
A: Yes, once post exposed and dry, the print can be painted.
Q: How dimensionally accurate are manufactured parts?
A: The Liquid Crystal 10″ will deliver accuracy of about +/- 150 um and the Liquid Crystal HR an accuracy of around +- 100 um.
Q: When does shrinkage occur?
A: We measure our shrinkage values by Archimedes principle (using density of resin against the change in density of the solid) and it occurs during the cure and after post-exposure. Shrinkage becomes a bigger problem for accuracy with larger printers but we do not see it as a significant problem with the Liquid Crystal printers.
Q: What is the long-term stability of the printed parts?
A: This would depend on environmental conditions and timescale. We do not have environmental stability data on our printed parts, but this is something of interest to us and we have ongoing tests.
Q: What temperatures do the printed parts tolerate?
A: Currently, the printed parts from most of our resins will crack if held at 250 – 300 C for long periods of time. Their heat deflection temperatures (HDT) are around 60 – 80 C, and so will deform if put under a load at temperatures higher than this. We are working on a high temperature resin, which currently has an HDT of 150 C but we are approving this and hoping to get up to 250 C.
1.Did you make the test Ring OK?
a. Yes– If Ring OK, but custom object is not OK- then it’s probably the .stl or .cws at fault. Look at what is on the platform and goto 4
b. No– If Ring not OK goto 2 and 3
2. Checking the linear runs smoothly
Press the ‘+50’ button on the control panel and see if the motor moves.
LC10 – Is the drive wobbly or does it make a grinding noise? Then the bushings are loose/misaligned. Use 1 1/2mm Allen key to loosen all of then then tighten them so that it still runs smoothly.
3. Checking the screen comes on
Press the show calibration button. If the screen doesn’t have power then look through the bottom vent in the chassis base to see if the screen driver board LED is illuminated with a green led. If this is not on then open the machine to check connections and voltages. The screen output connection on the main board supplies 11.5 – 12 volts to the screen driver board.
Screen driver board LED lights:
Green led- all OK
Red led- screen connection issue (either the ribbon or the display port have a poor connection)
No led- no power to screen driver board.
4. The screen comes on and the linear drive moves, but the print has a problem. What is on the platform?
a. The platform is clean and has no part of an object on it at all
i. Press play and run the same stl with the vat removed. Step through the first layers of the stl on the screen and check that they are no all-black layers. There has to be white joining up with white in each layer. If there is a break in the white to white in any layers then check the object on screen and support better or re-slice. It is common for objects to be positioned above the first layer on the screen. If the images are there and connected then goto 5 and 6.
b. Part of the print is missing with that part of the platform clean
i. Homing is off in one corner. Check you didn’t home badly and repeat the process but check you get white-out in the corner of the screen they lost the print. If you get white-out, but the print still fails then the vat must be up in that corner. Check the vat is not obstructed from sitting down on the screen. If it is correct then the vat must not be flat down on all four corners and goto 5.
ii. and have the platform up on one side by getting them to repeat with accurate homing. Then if it fails again this is because the vat is not down on the screen. So, release the bolts to allow it relax or we can replace the vat.
c. All the first layers are there, but there is a break after them
This means that the vat is above the screen, (goto 7) or the exposure time for the layers subsequent to the first layer are too short (resin too slow or light not on for long enough). Check you used the latest CW settings for the correct resin. The first layer will always be there as its over-exposed. If they are both correct then repeat with the side bolts on vat released (goto 7). If it still fails resin is too slow or exposure time is too short.
d. There is a failure mid-way in the print
Check the power didn’t switch off- this means electrical failure to the PC or the PC went onto standby mode.
Check the stl and check it has been supported.
If it has sliced/supported OK then release the side bolts and repeat.
5. Vat is above screen
Wear gloves to do this. Check the vat film is down on the screen by wiping the vat film with a piece of soft tissue, the film should stick down onto the screen and not pop up, if there is air gap between the screen you will see the film peel back as air gets in. This also checks there is nothing obstructing the vat and that it is screwed down tightly. If it is securely down then check the screen is slightly proud of its surrounding frame. If the vat is still away from the screen then goto 7.
6. Homing the platform is incorrect
Home correctly by starting with a clean screen and a clean vat placed on the screen. Check the vat film is down on the screen by wiping the vat film with a tissue, this also checks there are no particles trapped on or under the vat film. Loosen all three bolts on the print platform. Press home to lower the print platform. Align the platform with the glass and tighten the middle bolt. Wearing gloves press down on the middle of the platform and with the other hand tighten one of the side bolts. Then tighten the other bolt on the other side. You should see white-out in the corners of the screen showing you have made contact with the screen. Lift +10, fill with resin and lower -10. You are now homed.
7. Vat is not flat down on screen
This can be caused because the vat has warped or not been tightened after re-skinning. If it is up then there will be air between the resin and the screen and you will lose a layer. Loosen the two vat retaining bolts completely, by doing this the vat will relax and sit down better on the screen. If this doesn’t work then re-skin the vat and try again. If this doesn’t work the vat is faulty.
8. Object is sticky
Post expose in water immediately after making, for at least 10 minutes. Try to leave it for longer under water under UV light. Failing that clean with IPA.
9. Pi issues
File won’t delete from memory stick: It won’t allow deletion of files with characters in names (eg. * [list of not allowed symbols is in the instructions]) and will only allow one file to open – need to delete file using Printflow on pc.
Software won’t boot: SD card may be corrupted. Replace SD card.
Stuck in boot loop: SD card corrupted. Replace SD card.
10. Software issues
Check if you have the latest version of the Printflow software – If not connect to the internet (preferably via ethernet cable) and it will update automatically. If it takes an excessive amount of time (eg many hours) or crashes, the SD card may be corrupt.
If you can’t see your file on a memory stick, it probably has not been saved correctly. See instructions take care to check that export to .csw box in Creation Workshop is ticked and save the file before slicing.
If you have problems running Creation Workshop it may be better to save your Creation Workshop file in a directory other than C. Ensure you have disabled you firewall. Even if your computer does not recognise the screen resolution of the printer it may do it automatically, just check the red grid display screen is not distorted.
11. File does not show in menu?
Before you save and slice the file in Creation Workshop, make sure to tick in the “Export to CWS” in Configure > Configure Slicing Profile.
Without this ticked the file will not save properly and your printer won’t see the file. The USB stick should be formated in standard FAT32 format.